SISOCLM004
Lead climb multi pitches, natural surfaces


Application

This unit describes the performance outcomes, skills and knowledge required to climb multi pitches on natural surfaces using lead climbing techniques. It also requires the ability to belay climbers and to ascend multi pitch routes as a second climber.

It applies to leaders, guides or instructors who use these skills when leading participants during climbing activities. Leadership skills are provided in complementary units.

This unit applies to any type of organisation that delivers outdoor recreation activities including commercial, not-for-profit and government organisations.

No occupational licensing, certification or specific legislative requirements apply to this unit at the time of publication.


Elements and Performance Criteria

ELEMENTS

PERFORMANCECRITERIA

Elements describe the essential outcomes

Performance criteria describe the performance needed to demonstrate achievement of the element.

1. Prepare for the climb.

1.1. Select clothing, footwear and personal protective equipment suitable for the climb and conditions.

1.2. Confirm activity safety and emergency response procedures to ensure compliance during activities.

1.3. Confirm protocols for communications between climber and belayer.

1.4. Interpret route description; identify position of natural features, the climb route and contingencies.

1.5. Determine need for artificial protection during ascent; select and rack for accessibility during climb.

1.6. Attach and adjust belay equipment to self and tie knots suitable for the established belay system.

1.7. Complete equipment safety checks prior to climbing or belaying.

2. Climb multi pitch routes.

2.1. Use safety procedures at bottom, top of and throughout climbs to minimise risk to self and others present.

2.2. Maintain balance and use appropriate posture and climbing techniques to link a series of controlled moves to enable progress.

2.3. Locate and utilise rest positions to reduce fatigue.

2.4. Safely approach, avoid or negotiate hazards to ascend in a controlled manner.

2.5. Maintain effective communication with belayer throughout climb.

2.6. Use techniques that minimise damage to equipment and the surface during climb.

3. Ascend multi pitch routes as a lead climber.

3.1. Evaluate potential direction of falls, magnitude of force and second climber’s ability.

3.2. Select suitable type and set anchors and belay system safely and efficiently throughout climb.

3.3. Place protection periodically during climb to reduce fall distance.

3.4. Use techniques to minimise rope drag, displacement of artificial protection and injury in the event of a fall.

3.5. Monitor and maintain the safeguard system continuously.

3.6. Retreat from pitches when climber safety is compromised.

3.7. Select solid and secure anchors at top of pitch, or place artificial protection.

3.8. Establish belay system at top of pitch to maximise climber and belayer safety.

4. Ascend multi pitch routes as a second climber.

4.1. Utilise belaying system to maximise climber safety.

4.2. Remove artificial protection with and without a nut tool and minimise damage to equipment and natural surface.

5. Change over at belay stations.

5.1. Maintain continuous attachment to a reliable anchor system or anchor point.

5.2. Exchange climber roles at belay stations and transition to next pitch without entangling ropes.

5.3. Confirm alignment and stability of belay system before transitioning to next pitch.

6. Belay climbers.

6.1. Avoid or negotiate hazards and use safety procedures to minimise risk to self and others present.

6.2. Establish belaying position and attach self to anchor, as required, to allow effective and safe use of belay system.

6.3. Maintain rope tension to minimise fall distance and ensure climber movement is not unduly restricted.

6.4. Monitor climber progress constantly, and maintain clear communication with climber.

6.5. Arrest falls promptly using technique suitable to belaying device and situation.

6.6. Safely and efficiently secure climber, when compromised, using tie off techniques.

Foundation Skills

Foundation skills essential to performance in this unit, but not explicit in the performance criteria are listed here, along with a brief context statement.

SKILLS

DESCRIPTION

Reading skills to:

interpret detailed and familiar organisational safety and emergency response procedures.

Oral communications skills to:

use clear and unambiguous verbal and non-verbal communications to make intent known.

Numeracy skills to:

visually estimate angles, estimate load on ropes to determine appropriate tension for climbing and belaying

calculate loads for anchors and ropes under normal conditions and in the event of a fall to determine fall distances.

Planning and organising skills to:

manage own timing to complete activities within planned timeframes.


Sectors

Outdoor Recreation


Competency Field

Climbing